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Thread: Installation notes on rear Hellwig swaybar

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    Post Installation notes on rear Hellwig swaybar

    Wanted to share a couple of notes with those that purchased the rear Hellwig swaybar from the GP. Installed mine today, but have other work to do on truck so I left it on the stands in the garage. Here's a couple of things that helped me:

    1. Remove both back tires - it's easier to see.

    2. Stock height trucks will use the shorter end link bolts and spacers. I also used the shorter U-bolts.

    3. Assemble the endlink to the frame bracket before mounting the bracket to the truck and have the endlink bolt's head at the top. If you don't it will be harder to assemble.

    4. Separate your hardware before starting. There are a few nuts that are stamped with a square on one face. These are "locking" nuts which are different from the regular nuts and nylon lock nuts. The regular nuts are used for the U-bolts and saddles and will end up being double nutted.

    5. Pick up a few more 1/2" flat washers. My kit only came with six. You need eight. They protect the poly bushings when you tighten the endlinks. This is detailed in the instructions.

    6. The drivers side bracket for the endlink has a bolting plate whos shaft must pass through the frame. Hoses are routed in this area so you must remove one 8mm nut from the frame just in front of this hole. This releases the hold down for the obstructing hoses and tubing. Now you can push it out of the way to insert the plate.

    7. Put a little lubricating grease on the poly bushings to help them onto the endlink bolts. You'll still have to twist them on.

    8. In order to clear the passenger shock, the saddles and U-bolts will be angled somewhat toward the bed of the truck. This raises the swaybar off of the differential and off of the passenger shock. I used the handle of my ratchet to space the bar away from the shock while I was tightening the nuts on the U-bolts.

    Hope some of this helps and keeps you from


    Dan
    Last edited by Dan_d_glassman; 03-16-2003 at 09:39 PM.
    NHTOC # 68 2002 DSG

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    Front and Rear Hellwig swaybars, bilstein shocks, Denso IT20, Column pod w/ Autometer ultra-lite boost gauge, K&N panel, Retrax tonneau, slotted/dimpled rotors & Hawk HPS pads, LFP e-fan, LFP heat exchanger, 170° Stant t-stat

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    Thanks for the tips. It should help all of us that are do it youselfers. I plan on doing it myself when mine arrives. How long did it take you?

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    Can we get some pics to go with these tips? This would make a nice addition to the "How To" forum...

    Click it ^

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    It probably takes about 3 hrs for most, 2 or less for the "mod monsters." For me it took longer, but I had a 'helper' (my 4 year old son who always needs a wrench different than the one he has) and I had to learn the valuable lesson of assembling the end-links on the frame bracket. Also, had one trip to Lowe's in there for the two 1/2" flat washers.

    I'll take some pics soon since still have the rear wheels off to paint the calipers.


    Happy modding - Dan :bo:

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    Originally posted by Dan_d_glassman
    I had a 'helper' (my 4 year old son who always needs a wrench different than the one he has)
    LOL I understand completely, see my post about removing my valence.

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    I think there already is a how to for the helwig in the how to forum.

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    Good tips Dan!

    It probably takes about 3 hrs for most, 2 or less for the "mod monsters." For me it took longer, but I had a 'helper' (my 4 year old son who always needs a wrench different than the one he has) and I had to learn the valuable lesson of assembling the end-links on the frame bracket. Also, had one trip to Lowe's in there for the two 1/2" flat washers.
    Mod monsters... hahaha that's a good one.

    Taking off the wheels will make the area more accessible.

    8. In order to clear the passenger shock, the saddles and U-bolts will be angled somewhat toward the bed of the truck. This raises the swaybar off of the differential and off of the passenger shock. I used the handle of my ratchet to space the bar away from the shock while I was tightening the nuts on the U-bolts.
    Here's another tip:
    When you are ready to tighten the nuts on the U-bolts. Place a screwdriver "rubber/plastic handle", about 1" thick between the differential housing and the bar. That way you don't have to hold the bar while tightehing the bolts.

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    Great tips! i'll have to look this up again when my sway bar gets here. hope ya don't mind if i move this over to the "How-To" section

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    Got pics today... I'll work on getting them resized and posted tonight. Those of you that bought the front sway bar also are in for a little "trim to fit" work also - see my other post on the front sway bar.

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    To hell with the install, how do you like the handling???
    NHTOC # 21
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    Truck definately corners better. The back end doesn't 'side-step' when hitting bumps on the corners anymore. All-in-all some minor installation aggravations, but good bang-for-the-buck. This mod gets a

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    Here's some pics of the install...
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    more
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    and
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    finally...
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