The commentary is all really held in the very first link about Aluma Pro Caps...

The industry as a whole has gotten on what I call an "Audio Jewlery Kick" in the last 10 years. Gold plated this, PLatinum plated that, stiffening caps give you more bass, such-n-such barnd X wire is less resistive than brand y, our speaker cables are better etc. From a retail perspective its all about the add-on sale. Get the $$ for the high margin parts so you can give a percieved discount on the big items.

So here is the skinny:

1.) If your headlights are dimming @ the stop light ALTERNATOR not batteries or Caps. PERIOD.

2.) If your lights are dimming on the highway.. turn it down.. LOL & then 2nd alternator, batteries & a 50+ Farads of cap.

3.) Stiffening caps: simple statement: Multiples are BAD, they add up their relative resistence in your power chain. Go BIG or don't go. 15 farads minimum, otherwise don't bother. Coke-Can sized caps are gimmiks.

4.) Dual batteries are only logical if you want playing time with the vehicle off. Otherwise they are just another source the alternator has to charge for.

5.) Power wire, fuses & such: Whatever the manufacturer of your amp(s) recommends go up one size. If you have multiple amps, ad up the fuses ON THE BODY OF THE AMP, then go to the link below & find the wire size that matches the amp ratings & the length of wire.

http://www.the12volt.com/wiring/recwirsz.asp


6.) The Circuit Breaker or Fuse @ the battery is NOT to protect equipment, it is ther to protect the vehicle. 18" or less from the battery. I won't use fuses. They can fail. A manual reset circuit breaker is easier, safer, & more functional, need to work on the system, flip the breaker.. not dig out the right sized allen wrench.. undo the battery connection, fight the fuse holder apart etc. Most importantly is access time. The IASCA competition rules have stated for years that the main fuse must be able to be disabled to save the vehicle from a dead short in under 30 seconds. Aint happening with a fuse holder. Circuit breaker.. flip the lever. Done.

7.) Wire runs should not be UNDER the vehicle. inside the vehicle or inside the frame rail minimum. If it has to go under the vehicle then metal conduit is required & I would put a circuit breaker at BOTH ends of that length of wire. Also, rubber gromets where ever it passes through metal. DUH...

8.) Ground wires should always be AT LEAST the same size for the power wire going into the unit being powered. 4ga in = 4ga out. When dual battery systems, larger alternators, big systems etc. the grounds & power feeds need upgraded to handle the new amperage. See the chart above.. it covers electricity, not just musical component wiring.

As usual, ask questions in the general audio forum not on the sticky.

Rob W.