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Thread: Boost Actuator Adjustment

  1. #1
    ResFirma Mitescere Nescit
    Name: stew

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    Boost Actuator Adjustment

    Thanks to Charles (Chuck) Massey for this one....

    The boost actuator is located on the driver's side of the intake close to the firewall. There are (2) 10mm bolts that hold it in place. One you can see in the pic and the other is on the backside of the actuator closest to the firewall. Pay attention to the slots location in reference to the bolts so you will know where you started.

    Loosen bolts and raise the actuator up until you see the LEVER raise up off of the STOP.

    Lower it back down until the LEVER just touches the STOP then tighten bolts.



    Now, this is the way it was explained to me but I found that set this close the boost gauge would rise to almost "0" while cruising at 80. I went back and readjusted so I could cruise at 80 with no needle movement unless I barely moved the throttle (and I mean barely). This setting was probably halfway between the stock setting and the just touching setting. The first thing I noticed was the needle jumped immediately to 10lbs and climbed from there. Stock it jumped to 9.5lbs and climbed. The total boost also increased by a 1/2lb to 1/4lb more. I also ran a tick quicker with my fastest mph at the track. The temps were warmer and there was less traction (it rained until the track opened). I think this adjustment is worth a small amount of speed. Besides, it's free.

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    i just went and looked at mine and noticed that there was a piece of plastic on one of the hoses. it had a part number on it and it was stuck between the lever and the stop.
    I pulled it out. would this have made a difference?

  3. #3
    ResFirma Mitescere Nescit
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    not sure....guess you will have to go out and take it for a spin and see...

    But unless the paeice was interfering with the movement of the actuator I cant that it would....its probably the part number tag for the vac line that runs from the intake elbow to the actuator or the line that runs from the midplate to the FP Regulator and Boost sense line...its not a thick tag.

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    ok i have it set barley touchin the stop and i don't know if i should go down further or up if i want minimal gas pedal travel to get boost which way does it need to go also i see 10# and i barley hit 11# and i should be around 13-14 which is what it use to be at full throotle at redline???? or maybe it's just the weather. 56 deg. low humid. do you have yours further down or up after your reajustment?

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    also can you lose boost messing with this setting

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wikkid View Post
    ok i have it set barley touchin the stop and i don't know if i should go down further or up if i want minimal gas pedal travel to get boost which way does it need to go also i see 10# and i barley hit 11# and i should be around 13-14 which is what it use to be at full throotle at redline???? or maybe it's just the weather. 56 deg. low humid. do you have yours further down or up after your reajustment?
    mine is set to barely touching and I mean barely......make sure the actuator is as level as possible....


    Quote Originally Posted by Wikkid View Post
    also can you lose boost messing with this setting
    If the arm is touching to much it can keep the bypass valve from closing completely. SO yes you could lose boost.

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    allright i tinkled with it and when i set it lower after it touchs i make boost faster if i set it where it barley touchs i have to give it almost wot to see 10#.. so in my case down further after it touchs i see quick response to boost and less gas pedal travel to get boost also even if i set it down all the way i get the same amount of boost.

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    ResFirma Mitescere Nescit
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    you might have a vac leak soemwhere again....or your boost guage is not working properly...

    If anything when colder you should see more boost....not lose it...

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    new gauge will be here tonight mine says -4 when truck is off. vac is arround-23 at idle w/ac off and -19w/ac on
    "Ford racing gauge is bad so i got a stewart warner"
    as far as vac leak? might be possiable. i will check all lines this weekend.
    truck runs like a champ though. Whats the best way to check. after i turn my vehicle off it takes about 4-5secs for my gauge to return to normal.

  10. #10
    World's Fastest Street HD
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    if the gauge is saying -4 with the truck off, then that 10 lbs of boost you are seeing should be around 14 lbs of boost since the gauge should read 0 when the truck is off

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    and with my setup "2.73 upper 4Lb lower" is right correct? "14pds"

    also should i return this stewart warner gauge and get a prosport?

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    I have the Stewart Warner guage and its off by -2 and I see 10# but its really 12#. I called Stewart Warner and summit to ask if there is a way to adjust them and they had no answer for me. Hopefully your new guage will be sitting at zero after you install it.

  13. #13
    World's Fastest Street HD
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    They all seem to have duds every now and then. seems like the OEM ford racing one seems to crap out more often though.

    My SW is dead on. With hearing stuff about the prosport gauges lately, I'd steer away from them and stick to SW or Autometer (even though autometer makes the ford racing one)

    wikkid, 14 sounds about right for that combo, depending on intake setup, etc.

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    That figures since I just purchased the OEM Ford Racing version but haven't installed it yet!!!
    usflgwav

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    got my stewart and it's on 1 psi not even connected??? wtf

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