innovate wideband

[oki916]

@oki really? they de it sound more complex than that we shall see

seems pretty simple haha

Yup..pretty simple

[cayman150]

I hope you got the bung welded in at the correct angle too? I seem to remember something about having to have it welded into the exhaust pipe between the 10 and 2 o'clock position so when there is moisture in the exhaust it doesn't settle on the sensor.

[s|ck]

I myself have the Innovate LC-1 Wideband, Calibration is a breeze. A click of a button and you're set!

Not to mention, you can Datalog your air/fuel ratio's.

[spy98der1]

we couldnt get it at the 10 or 2 there was absolutly no room but we do have it at the 4ish so its still at an angle where moisture wont settle

[spy98der1]

got it on last light and its spot on with the #s 356 and sick told me....but one more question on it.... going down a hill or when i take my foot off and it down shifts....the numbers go insane, is that something i need to worry about? like high....20+ then sometimes o2 will flash....but normaly idle is 14.8 to 15.3 and WOT is like 11.2 so that part is right ..... should i worry?

[Harley#356]

it shouldn't downshift when you take your foot off. It may upshift if you stop accelerating. Its normal for it to jump way up though if you quick let your foot off the throttle, but it shouldn't stumble or anything, and it shouldnt stay there long.

[spy98der1]

yeah it didnt stay there very long i was just making sure.....

[Tweek03HD]

yeah it didnt stay there very long i was just making sure.....

It was dead on friday night. that thing is awesome.. The Terminator Cobra guys swear by the innovative and I have watch guys tune their Cobra's very aggresivley based off of the Innovative W/B. They are awesome. No more light work bein drunk though, Not a good idea,lol.

[Blind]

not sure if your gauges are the same, but I installed a G2 gauge with the LC-1 wideband kit, and the instructions said to have one of the gauges power wires tapped to a constant 12v, so I ran one for it. However when the truck is off, the gauge was constantly making a clicking sound. I understand this constant 12v was to move the gauges needle down to full rich when the truck is off (far left) rather than staying where it was when turned off (usually ~14.7 at idle on my truck).

This for sure would drain the battery if left that way, so I wired that lead to the same switched 12v as the LC-1 and it seems to be working fine so far.

11.8 at WOT, 14.7 at idle, and 14-15.5 while cruising down the highway. Mine too pegs lean when decelerating sometimes, the computer turns the injectors off while slowing down sometimes from what I understand.

[spy98der1]

sounds like a bad ground brother......i went off a thread sick sent me and it works perfect....ran both power wires into "fuse extenders" and i get no clicking or ground noise....now if i can just get my baby back down south so i stop going into 10s when i get on it @ 40 degrees

[Black Molly]

not sure if your gauges are the same, but I installed a G2 gauge with the LC-1 wideband kit, and the instructions said to have one of the gauges power wires tapped to a constant 12v, so I ran one for it. However when the truck is off, the gauge was constantly making a clicking sound. I understand this constant 12v was to move the gauges needle down to full rich when the truck is off (far left) rather than staying where it was when turned off (usually ~14.7 at idle on my truck).

This for sure would drain the battery if left that way, so I wired that lead to the same switched 12v as the LC-1 and it seems to be working fine so far.

11.8 at WOT, 14.7 at idle, and 14-15.5 while cruising down the highway. Mine too pegs lean when decelerating sometimes, the computer turns the injectors off while slowing down sometimes from what I understand.

That one pair of wires is for the heater. One of these will be a ground, and the other will be for 12 volts. Wide band sensors need to maintain a correct tip temperature, and therefore the ECU will control the amount of heat supplied by the heater circuit. Usually it's heater ground runs to the ECU, and then the ECU can make or break the ground, as needed, to maintain the tip temperature in an acceptable range

[Blind]

That one pair of wires is for the heater. One of these will be a ground, and the other will be for 12 volts. Wide band sensors need to maintain a correct tip temperature, and therefore the ECU will control the amount of heat supplied by the heater circuit. Usually it's heater ground runs to the ECU, and then the ECU can make or break the ground, as needed, to maintain the tip temperature in an acceptable range

the +12v leads I am referring to have nothing to do with the o2 sensor, these are for the G2 gauge only, and I've found confirming threads on other forums where people have installed the G series gauges and had the exact problem which was solved by doing what I did and moving that line to be a switched 12v.