BLACKFIRE Wet-Ice Over Fire

[Merlin]

This is really a combo of two Blackfire products. Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection and Midnight Sun Wax.
The combo of these two products are the "signature shine" flagship products of the Blackfire product line.

I have used BF Wet Diamond for a quite while now. Easy on, easy off, doesn't stain trim, sharp gloss and very slick.
I have done a couple of reviews here on application, removal and the results obtained when using the product.
I like this product so much I recently purchased a half gallon when it went on sale. Shhh..don't tell the wife.

I have used this a basic paint correction "show car" process many time with excellent results.
Megs M105, Megs M205, Menz PO85, Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection.

I recently purchased Blackfire Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax and wanted to try the Wet-Ice Over Fire combo.

Wash:
Washed the truck (two bucket method) and used a paint cleanser to strip off any wax/sealant that was on the truck.

I had a clean surface with minor swirls and faint scratches that needed correction before LSP (Last Step Product).


Correction:
I thought I'd try a different approach to removing the scratches and swirls than I have tried in the past.

For correction I used Glare Professional Polish with a PC 7424xp and a Lake Country White pad.

The LC white pad is a high absorption foam formula for the application of waxes, micro-fine polishes and sealants.

A little blurb about Glare Pro Polish...I have used that product for many years with excellent results.
The manufacturer claims it will last five years and more has caused some disputes in the detailing community.
For me it's greatest saving grace is I use it to eliminate scratches from bushes etc. and they don't come back.
I have used this stuff on my motorcycles for years but actually never did an entire vehicle with this product.

What I like about Glare Pro is that rather than removing clear coat to correct it actually fills and builds.
Again, this is a completely different approach than traditional "paint correction" polishing paint removal detailing.
I'm comfortable knowing (unlike glazes) that Glare Pro scratch corrections (from bushes etc.) don't come back.
A permanent scratch/swirl correction that adds rather than subtract...what a concept!


Application:
Ok now on to the process. The swirls were minimal but they were apparant. Glare Pro, LC white, Speed 5-5.5 gone!
Glare Pro by itself left a nice finish and I could have left it alone at this point but on to Wet-Ice Over Fire.

First, I did two coats of Blackfife Wet Diamond with about 10-12 hours between each coat (allowing for sure time).
I applied BFWD with the PC7424xp and a Lake Country black pad. Quick and easy application and removal.
BFWD is very slick and its formulation design is to replicate a similar the look of a fine carnuaba wax.
Again, I could have left it at that and still would have been very happy with the look and finished result.

Second, I applied Blackfire Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax on top of the Black fire Wet Diamond.
I expected this to tone down the brightness and shiny gloss on the Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection.
I did this with a Lake Country CCS 4 Inch Spot Buffs Foam Pad. I used speed 3 on the PC to apply the wax.
The 4" pad does not fit "exactly" inside the jar so I needed to remove the pad to put it in the wax jar.

I found that you are not supposed to allow the Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax to dry before removal.
It's bacically apply and remove each panel at a time. If it dries it can be a bit stubborn for easy removal.
I may have left it on a bit too long (even though it only seammed like five minutes) as some of it grabbed.

Ok now on to the finished results. Well as most of you folks know I used about every LSP known to man.
Lots of you have seen the palm tree reflecto shots I have done off of my black hood and they look pretty good.
This time when I looked at the palm tree I could see brown, tan and green colors that I have never seen before.
I know the Wet-Ice Over Fire combo has been used (and reviewed) many times but it was my first time at the wheel.


Conclusion:
The Wet-Ice Over Fire combo has a totally different finished look! It's VERY deep and it's like looking in a mirror.
The BFMS did take away some of the high shine of just the BFWD by itself but the finished combo look is awesome.
I would highly recommend using this combo as they say "Blackfire - Don't just turn heads, create whiplash!"
This combo has a very stunning unique look!

Last minute update:
The price of Blackfire Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax has just been raised from $60. It is now $80!

The BLACKFIRE Wet-Ice Over Fire Kit is $99
This includes the Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection, Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax,
BLACKFIRE Deep Gloss Spray Sealant, Microfiber towels and applicator pads. (IMHO this is the way to go)

I currently have no pics but I'll take a few (It won't do it justice) if you want.

[UserName]

Nice! Cant wait for pics. Ive actually almost given up on my paint Merlin. Im afraid to polish it any more because I dont want to go too far. I have several rock pecks and chips in the hood and front bumper. I think im just fighting fire with gas.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk

[Merlin]

Nice! Cant wait for pics. Ive actually almost given up on my paint Merlin. Im afraid to polish it any more because I dont want to go too far.

That's why I like Glare Professional Polish. The traditional way to remove swirls and defects is to polish down the clear coat (removing clear coat) to level out the paint. Glare Pro Polish adds to the CC.

"GLARE PROFESSIONAL POLISH will bond to your vehicle’s paint through a covalent chemical bond which is not possible with any other product currently available in the world’s market. The chemical reaction that occurs between GLARE and the paint literally transforms the chemical structure of the vehicle’s paint and now shares the properties of both the original paint and glass. Micro scratches, swirls, and oxidation are all removed permanently. The end result is a newly created type of paint/glass hybrid “SUPER PAINT” that is harder and more resilient then before."

Although they state: "Never apply carnauba wax, or polymer synthetic wax, on top of your final GLARE coat as this will adversely affect the chemical bonding process with the paint and will cause the shine to go down."

I have applied other products after letting Glare Pro Polish "cure" for at least 24 hours without any adverse effects.

I have several rock pecks and chips in the hood and front bumper. I think im just fighting fire with gas.

For road rash and small chips I have had excellent results using Dr. ColorChip. I guess I should do a review on that too.

[Merlin]

"GLARE PROFESSIONAL POLISH is a non-stick, high gloss, all-weather, temperature-flexible sealant containing a new type of proprietary chemical formulation called Glassplexin."

I don't care what it's called...it could be called "snake oil". It lasts, I use it and I like the "permanent" corrected results.
It's nice to know scratches and swirls are gone and unlike a glaze they will stay gone. I've had real good luck with it.

[Merlin]

Here's a Blackfire "Wet ice-over-fire" pic

[harleyduece]

Wow that Looks awesome

[dragginNCrds]

now here is a good question for you.. my mom has a 10 hyundai genesis.. and the paint feels rough over the whole car.. the car has never been wrecked or resprayed.. but its always felt rough.. would this process work on her car.. even though its blue instead of black ?? i have some of the Glare stuff ordered in order to try and get the scratches out of her hood.. looks like someone walked by with a bag and scratched it.. but i won't to wax the whole car and try and get the roughness gone.

[Merlin]

a 10 hyundai genesis.. and the paint feels rough over the whole car

Please try to describe the "roughness" does it feel gritty?

Do you have a DA polisher (Megs, Porter Cable, Griots 6" etc.)?

Let me know how you make out with the scratches?

[dragginNCrds]

it docent feel gritty... it just feels rough as in not smooth like glass.. and my polish came in and so far i can't tell a difference.. i can still see the scratches in the right light.. looking straight on u can't.. but at a angle u can.. and no i don't have a da polisher..

[Blind]

best way to get rid of roughness like that is a clay bar. The swirls will need a DA to really come out perfect.

[Merlin]

If it felt gritty I would suggest using a clay bar on the paint. Clay removes surface contaminants.

....

For actual roughness the paint needs to be leveled.
This can be done several ways
Wet sanding...which I would not recommend for a novice!
Using a rotary buffer...again I would not recommend this for a novice!
Using a DA polisher...this device will take longer but it is fairly novice safe.

Is a DA safe? Yes (for the most part)
Does a DA take longer? Yes, but it's the safest machine.

The fact that the vehicle has the original OEM paint is good.
The fact that the paint probably has never been polished is good.

To level the paint and remove the swirls and scratches you will need a machine.
You can not do by hand what you can accomplish with a machine.
The total cost to get started for DIY would probably be around $200

I would suggest the Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital as a place to start.
Then you will need polishing products, pads and learning the correct process.


Or you could find a local "detailer" that knows how to use machines and is really good at what they do.
I have found the second part of the above sentence the most difficult part to find. A real good detailer is $40+ per hour.
If the entire vehicle needs paint correction you could be looking at 15-20 hours to level and polish all the paint.
Or (my favorite) you can learn and do it yourself. This give you a true sense of accomplishment and "Pride in your Ride"!

[dragginNCrds]

well its not my ride.. hahahahaahahha.. but i used that glare polish.. and it helped.. but im gonna let it dry for a day or so and then put another coat on it.. and ive used a claybar before.. and tried it on a spot on her car.. and it didnt help..

[Harley#356]

I've got a bottle of BFWD and a jar of the BFMS in the garage, can't wait to try it out this spring when I get motivated enough to detail the truck. I think there's still rubber down the sides from racing htis fall lol

[TX Harley Guy]

well its not my ride.. hahahahaahahha.. but i used that glare polish.. and it helped.. but im gonna let it dry for a day or so and then put another coat on it.. and ive used a claybar before.. and tried it on a spot on her car.. and it didnt help..

It could have "rail dust" on it but that's very uncommon nowadays since cars are covered in plastic during shipment. It could have some of the adhesive from the film stuck to the finish, if it's there for a while it can be very hard to remove. Is it all over the car or hood trunk and roof?

[Merlin]

.. but i used that glare polish.. and it helped.. but im gonna let it dry for a day or so and then put another coat on it.. and ive used a claybar before.. and tried it on a spot on her car.. and it didnt help..

Without a machine you will need to RUB (I mean RUB) the Glare on the trouble spots.
Think of it like using a rubbing compound except you're filling and bonding the Glare to the paint.

Try this trick...put your hand in a sandwich bag (Baggie) or put a sheet of Saran Wrap on your fingers and feel the paint.

What do you feel?