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Thread: How To Use Detailing Clay

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    How To Use Detailing Clay

    How To Use Detailing Clay

    Every car finish shares a common enemy. The enemy is air-borne pollution and fall out. Regular washing cannot remove it and paint polishing is highly inefficient at attacking it. The solution is Detailing Clay.

    Detailing Clay is perhaps one of the most innovative and effective do-it-yourself product innovations in the car care industry, despite being overlooked by many detailers and enthusiasts. Invented in Japan in the late 1980's, automotive Detailing Clay is a paint cleaning system designed to safely and effectively remove bonded surface contamination that is not removed with normal car washing.

    Claying your paint with Detailing Clay is not a substitute for polishing your car. Claying is a process to be done prior to the polishing process to remove contaminants that have adhered to your paint. The polishing process removes paint defects such as scratches, swirl marks, oxidation, and staining while improving overall paint clarity to enhance gloss and prepare your paint to accept car waxes, paint sealants, or coatings.

    For those who have never done it, rubbing detailing clay on your car does sound a little strange but it is actually very effective, quick, super easy and extremely safe! If you have never clayed your paint you will quickly see what you have been missing within the first few passes. It's actually kind of fun!

    This article will walk you through the claying process step-by-step to remove the bonded surface contamination and prepare your car for polishing and/or protection.


    Does My Car Need to be Clayed?

    First of all, age does not matter! Many people think that a new car does not need to be clayed. This is not necessarily true! Contamination doesn't care if your car is new or old. If your car is subjected to airborne contamination and it has bonded to the surface it needs to be clayed.



    Just remember, even a new car has been subjected to many types environments prior to the salesman handing you the keys. Your car started at the factory, sat on a lot waiting for transport, then it sat on the lot waiting to be bought. Who knows what was floating around the air on the long journey between the factory and your driveway???



    Surface Contamination Test

    New or old, there is a way to tell if it is time to clay your car. The contamination that clay removes can often be felt by touch. Paint should feel smooth. If you feel a gritty, a sandy, or a pebble like texture on the paint then it needs to be clayed.

    • Wash your car to make sure the surface is clean and free of any loose dirt, then feel the surface with the back of your hand for obvious contamination. Sometimes you can feel it right away but you may need to go one step further with your contamination test.


    • Place your hand inside a thin plastic sandwich bag.


    • Run the bag over the same area of your paint that you felt with your bare hand.


    Do you feel the difference? The plastic bag basically amplifies your ability to feel the surface contamination bonded to your car. Even if you don’t feel much, it is best to remove it before moving on to your polishing and protecting processes.

    Types of Bonded Surface Contamination

    Bonded surface contaminants make your paint feel rough leaving your paint more prone to oxidation and premature aging. If your paint is not slick and smooth, dirt and grime tend to stick to the surface of your car, which can lead to instilling that dreaded swirl during your car wash process.

    • Paint Overspray
    • Rail Dust
    • Industrial Pollution
    • Road Grime
    • Brake Dust
    • Bugs Remains
    • Pollen
    • Specs from Tree Sap or Tar
    • Many other contaminants that float around the air and attach themselves to your paint’s surface.


    How Does Detailing Clay Work



    Surface contamination won’t budge when you wash the surface through your normal car wash procedure. The contamination is even difficult to polish off. Detailing Clay will quickly and easily remove this contamination as it glides across your paint surface without the worry of damaging your paint.



    Detailing Clay works by hydroplaning (gliding) over the surface of your paint on a thin layer of clay lubricant. The contamination sticks through the surface where the clay is free to remove it. The clay lubricant also helps to keep the clay from sticking to the surface of the paint while the clay removes the bonded contamination. Many fear that they will harm their car’s paint as Detailing Clay is an abrasive but it is actually only abrasive to the contamination, not your paint. The Detailing Clay actually safely shears the bonded surface contamination without the fear of harming your paint.



    Types of Detailing Clay

    There are many brands of clay with different levels of aggressiveness. The more aggressive Detailing Clays are used in body shops to remove difficult contaminates like heavy paint overspray. The medium to ultra-fine grade Detailing Clays are formulated for professional detailers, serious enthusiasts and average consumers.

    Meguiar's Professional Red Detailing Clay is an aggressive detailing clay that will quickly cut through heavy contamination. However the abrasives in this synthetic bar are aggressive enough to lightly mark or scratch the paint, requiring some machine paint polishing to remove. This bar is recommended for professionals or serious enthusiasts who have machine paint polishing experience.

    Meguiar's Professional Blue Detailing Clay is a medium grade of synthetic clay that is malleable and gentle to the paint but tough on paint contamination. This is a consumer grade clay that many professionals use for it's quick cleaning action.

    Zaino Z-18 ClayBar is an extremely fine clay that will remove light contamination quickly with almost zero risk of damaging the softest paints. This fine clay is well suited to regular use and is so gentle in it's action that it will not remove most waxes and paint sealants.

    The Ultima Elastrofoam Paint Cleaning System is a new take on the clay bar. With the Ultima System the clay bar is replaced by a specially lined Elastrofoam Foam Block. The special lining on the block allows it remove contamination just like a clay bar, yet it can be rinsed and re-used many time.

    Clay Lubrication

    Without proper lubrication Detailing Clay will simply not work. Instead the clay would stick or skip across the paint and likely cause some marring. Lubrication such as a detail spray or proper clay lubricant will help the Detailing Clay to properly glide across the paint surface. The clay bar should not stick or grab on the paint.

    Detailing Clay Procedure

    IMPORTANT! If you drop your detail clay bar on the ground you MUST throw it away as it will pick up dirt from the ground which will scratch your car!

    • Always work in a shaded area and on a cool surface. Claying your car on a warm or hot surface will tend to make the clay stick to the surface and will not be effective to remove the bonded surface contamination.
    • Thoroughly wash and dry your car or truck.
    • Cut your Detailing Clay in half or quarters and form a round flat wafer. A 200g Detailing Clay Bar will make four pieces.
    • Spray your detail clay lubricant onto about a 2’ by 2’ area.
    • Gently with slight pressure glide the detailing clay bar over the surface of the paint in a back and forth motion. Do not apply excessive pressure; remember you are only hydroplaning over the surface to remove bonded contaminants. The clay may tend to grab at first, then you will feel it break free and easily glide as the contaminants are removed.
    • IMPORTANT! Keep your clay and surface well lubricated with your detailing clay lubricant.
    • Wipe clay lubricant from the surface with a quality microfiber towel.
    • Fold over your clay and knead to reshape often to expose a clean clay surface.
    • Feel the area that has been cleaned. It should feel slick and smooth. If not, you will need to repeat the process until all of the surface contamination has been removed.
    • Continue this process over the entire car. Remember that detail clay works great on glass, chrome and wheels too. Heavy embedded contaminants on wheels will probably require lots of elbow grease!
    • As a precaution when claying wheels be sure to use a dedicated clay bar that will not ever be used on your car’s paint.


    Storage: Be sure to lubricate your detail clay bar with your clay lubricant to keep it from sticking and store it in its original box or plastic bag. Do not let your detail clay freeze or reach temperatures above 120 degrees.

  2. #2
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    How To Use Detailing Clay

    Merlin, I noticed Adams polishes didn't make your list of clays, have you used it? I really like it, I bought some from my local Adams dealer and it works AMAZING

    2002 DSG Nicknamed "Haley the Harley Truck"
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    Actually Auto Magic (see post Let's Talk clay Bars) currently holds the US Patent on detailing clay.
    Auto Magic's clay patent expires in 2013. All detailing clay polys etc. come from one source (for now).
    They've sued infringers multiple times (almost 20) and have received $10's of Millions in court judgements.
    There are many different "private" labels, types, colors and aggressiveness down to ultra fine but only one source.
    Auto Magic sells their clay under the name Clay Magic and IMO Meguiars/Clay Magic products are the same product.
    Yes, they all sell detailing clay, from Adams to Zaino (A-Z) with their specific specs for color, texture, aggressiveness.
    This is the only reason I didn't mention the sellers of the hundreds of different "brands" of detailing clay on the market.

    Now for something completely different...The Ultima Elastrofoam Paint Cleaning System is a new take on the clay bar.
    I've already seen this "rubber foam" material on one side of a microfiber cloth and pads that attach to a Dual Action polisher.
    These new products last for 60-100 vehicles, If you drop them on the ground you don't need to throw it away...You rinse it off!
    Last edited by Merlin; 11-21-2012 at 06:40 AM.

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    How many folks here clay their paint?

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    How To Use Detailing Clay

    I've attempted it but it didn't come out too well. Would love to do the Harley but very nervous to do so
    2002 Harley Davidson F150
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oceanside78 View Post
    I've attempted it but it didn't come out too well. Would love to do the Harley but very nervous to do so
    What happened? What were your results?

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    How To Use Detailing Clay

    It was a white 4runner, had a lot of junk in the paint but it was still in good condition. The rubber from the moldings was bleeding off and staining it. I used the mothers (I think) detailing spray and clay bar, it cleaned a lot up, but it ended up making the black run into other spots. It was a pain. I'd love to do it to the Harley but I had such a bad experience I'm nervous now. I'd love to get a machine to wax and buff the truck as well. It's such low mileage it could really look new again

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    Along with Auto Magic's patent running out in 2013 there are some new products on the market that are "replacing" using a clay bar.

    These products include:

    • Ultima Elastrofoam Paint Cleaning System

      Nanoskin Autoscrub System 6 inch DA Pads (Med & Fine)

      SM Arnold Speedy Surface Prep Towel (Med & Fine)

      Nanoskin Auto Scrub Wash Mitt (Med & Fine)



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    How To Use Detailing Clay

    Wow. Yeah I need to do some serious research. All I know is real basic. Wash, dry, hand wax and hand buff. All the other stuff I'm completely in the dark. I use a chrome polish for the wheels/bars/exhaust tip and interior stuff but the whole using a buffer and how to clay I'm pretty much a cherry at that stuff. I have some serious swirls in my clear that I'd like to get out. My front bumper has some minor nicks that I'd like to clay out as well. What's a good way to go about my goal.

    i.e. wash, then clay, then buff, wax, and rebuff?? I want it to look new again

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    I use to clay my truck about 4 times a year, but now sadly she is looking like an orphaned child.lols.the top and the hood have the paint deteriated along with the other usual suspect areas with the dreaded Texas heat and sun damage. So for now I actually sort of am enjoying the old skool patina look, laughingly lazily so. Having had hopes of begining her retoration to modded and like new status, life once agin has interveined on those plans for now. Still, believe it or not, I have actually had a few parking lot encounter questions of just how did I give the truck this new found old skool look, I laughed them off at first, but it seems to some there are I guess many who actually do spend lots of money and hard labor making their trucks look like a well worn one.....maybe like the fad of faded jeans?.so now I just bide my time until repainting etc happens, and along the way once again smile at the many looks, thumbs up and even close encounters with people who all still seem to really luv the looks of these first edition Harley Trucks as much as I do.
    Thanks again for the vast experience and knowledge base sharing for us all here, we do learn something often from you, even us old timer types! Question, have you ever worked with some of those foam cleaning pad cleaning system pads such as the "Mr. Clean Majic eraser" style item? I have been trying those out on a variety of things, I started by looking for something to really clean and restore the look of the aluminum faceplates oin some of my vintage stereo colletion items, and not only did it work I had amazing results! Others who share my love of the old skool "silver faced" receivers and such from the 70's have seen the results, for the semi-porus fine lined machine woirk is very hard to cleanwell withpout some form of solvent which always then destroys the inked dial numbers, etc on the stero's, especially on the sides and backs where the important info is just silked onto the metal after painting with no protective covering. I have used it on small interior items on my truck and later will try it on more things, oh yes, they do take some work and care not to foul them with grease or oil but they sure do make the aluminum piping of my intake system shine like never before.I di notice you mentioned something about a new style foam, is this or similar what your describing?.agin, thanks for all you do here, your time and wisdom is truly appreciated by us anyways, D>
    ps....talk about polishing glass!!! without the worry of streaks and left behind residues, these little foam pads truly are magic for some uses an I remain finding new uses daily, I bought a large supply of dollar store generics and they seem to perform right beside the brand named ones at half the price, D>
    oh and one more thing regarding using clay proucts. Such a great invention they are! being an old Oilfield hand I still have a few bags of confiscated drilling mud and other items out back in one of my old barn storage hid-a-ways.long ago I made a mixture of the bentonite with cornstarch as a binder and clean water. I have used various concoktions of this potion to repair small paint areas, clean old vehicle and other glass pieces of various types, and even to do some old school laquer paint job repairs, as when mixed correctly this makes the finest polishing compound I have ever used from any source. Bentonite is the basic building block of the drilling fluids used in the well drilling process and is readily available around anywhere, if no oilfield work around simply ask the local water well drillers. 50 lbs bag last forever and is cheap...I know it sounds crazy in a way but trust me, like many old skool ways of doing things that people still do, because they work. This stuff can be compounded anywhere from clay bar consistancy to as fine a polish similar to the glaze finish products.natural clean washes off easily and the clay certainly does absord inpuroities and contaminants , paint over spray and other residues easily. Some uys with shops may want to look into that, again bentonite, powdered clay in pure form, cheap and a great product with tons of uses!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oceanside78 View Post
    ...the whole using a buffer and how to clay I'm pretty much a cherry at that stuff.
    I have some serious swirls in my clear that I'd like to get out.
    My front bumper has some minor nicks that I'd like to clay out as well.
    What's a good way to go about my goal.

    i.e. wash, then clay, then buff, wax, and rebuff?? I want it to look new again
    Easy enough to learn there are tons of "How to use a DA" videos. I can teach you in 10 mins.

    My suggestion for a newbie is a DA either PC7242xp or GG 6" and a 5" DA backing plate W67DA
    5.5" Meguiars Microfiber cutting discs (2 pack) & Meguiar's DA Microfiber Compound D300 16 oz
    These four items will easily solve your swirl issues with very little polisher experience needed.



    If they are road rash rock chips I'd recommend Dr. ColorChip to fill them in. It works for me.

    Clay is to remove contaminants from the paint. Wash a 24" x 24" section on your hood.
    Dry it and make sure it's "clean". Put your hand in a baggie. Can you feel little bumps?
    If so you need to clay. If you have not had good experiences with a clay bar in the past then...
    I'd suggest the SM Arnold Speedy Surface Prep Towel (Fine) or the Nanoskin Auto Scrub Wash Mitt (Fine)

    I Wash, Clay, Wash then Polish with a DA Megs MF disc and D300, then a finer polish like Megs Ultimate Polish
    For this step I'd use a Lake Country 5.5" white flat pad. This step adds greater clarity & gloss to the paint finish
    Then (and this step is just me so don't be afraid) I'd use a rotary with a jeweling pad and Menz PO85 or 3M Ultrafina
    Now once the polishing is all done I'd use a sealant to protect the paint. I like using Zaino Z-2 or Blackfire Wet Diamond.

    The key is in the Preparation! This means cleaning and polishing the paint to remove any imperfections before applying sealant.
    A simple wash and wax takes me about an hour and a half. A complete 2 or 3 stage polish and seal can take me between 20-30 hours.
    The good news is once the paint has been polished (with proper washing technique) it should last way over a year before needing it again.

    It's been over a year since I did mine last and it still look just like this.

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    How To Use Detailing Clay

    Wow dude, not gonna lie, even some of the acronyms you used are over my head. I've just got to do more research

  13. #13
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    Woops, I'm sorry my fault I get carried away sometimes and think everyone knows 'em
    Here's some not for detailing but for the truck GLossary of Abbreviations and Acronyms

    Usually when I post I will precede the acronym with a definition - Dual Action (DA) etc.
    To help clarify any issues in the future I created a seperate Detailing Acronyms thread
    Last edited by Merlin; 11-25-2012 at 06:20 AM.

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