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Thread: Starting the Melling Timing Components w/ intercooler clean

  1. #31
    Registered User
    Name: edward

    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    FLW Mo
    Liked 5 Times in 4 Posts
    Here is the valve cover removed, bank #1, it was the harder of the two to remove. Recommend to have the bottom of the valve cover exosed by removing the tire and the fender liner from both wheel wells.

    Once exposed you will have access to all the bottom bolts and be easier to get to the one in the back top corner for both sides of the vehicle.

    To remove the bank #1 valve cover, remove and disconnect the passenger side bracket and un-plug electrical connectors behind the bracket to make it easier to rotate counter clock wise and pull straight out after gasket has been broke loose.

    Note: The electrical harness being disconnected behind protective mounting bracket is thick and will be troublesome for valve cover removal.

    Inked disconnect .jpg

    VC R.jpg

    - Have the capability to chase threads with a tap that has a socket end, otherwise you'll loose one of your 1/4" drive sockets to hammering onto the tap to be able to chase threads with a 1/4" drive ratchet and extension should you get into a pinch when installing valve covers once ready for installation.
    (tap handles are to cumbersome for use)

    Note: When finding sockets other than the type of quality sockets you own, I find it best to collect them for when you find yourself in a situation like this one.

    taps 2.jpg


    Take pics of your valve covers once removed to ensure bolt stud placement and once removed prep for soaking and cleaning.

    Here is the cleaning, I'm using a heavy degreaser and letting them soak one side at a time per valve cover considering the rubber grommet for a few hours or as needed. I opted out of getting a parts washer, instead I'm using extra large drip pans from the motor pool at work. Took double pics for bolt stud placement for bank one.

    clean vc 1 .jpg

    clean vc 2.jpg

    So when selecting a paint color at the parts store I was looking for engine color that had ceramic infused at a high temp that was listed as engine paint, was looking for a Ford blue that popped but either they only had 1 can or it was a junk color, there was a neon type night shade that I could of used but didn't want to be too boojee knowing I was going to pull the engine out at some point. You guys can be the judge.
    Also, I had a tube of throttle grip glue from changing out the grips on my ninja that I used to secure the valve cover gasket, keeping it secure while twisting and turning trying to install the valve cover avoiding pinching the gasket during installation, highly recommended.

    painted 1.jpg

    painted 2.jpg

    Here is the one thing to consider when fixing the gasket to the valve cover, washing the bolts clean of any debris before installation and fixing them to the valve cover through the gasket, there is a right way and wrong way.
    ((be advised))

    right way .jpg

    Note the excess gasket material, A glob of Permatex is added onto the cylinder head and front cover joint, where the front cover and cylinder head meet, it will leak there should you not follow procedure. Apparently you have within 4 minutes to secure the valve cover correctly, I went hand tight all the way around then back at torque sequence.
    It is best to have torque wrenches for inch pounds and foot pounds and 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" reducers/adapters.

    Inkedpainted 2-1.jpg

    Here is bank #1 installed, note how all the bolts are exposed for torque sequencing, I had to loosen the dip stick to work around and get at one of the bolts. I had the truck on stands with both wheels removed. I also had a large box to stand on while jumping around to torque sequence each bolt. Each bolt had its own situation.

    installed .jpg


    For bank #2 I had to un-bolt the fuel rail at the mount to tweak the fuel rail a bit to the valve cover but it was fairly easy to remove, no issues for removal.
    For being at 169,000 miles the color of the oil residue on the valve train was concerning, I thought back to the L&S oil separator and how it re-introduces the oil back into the system. I don't think its a maintenance free unit and would think it does have a life cycle. Later on I'm going to have to cut the separator open to see what it looks like. As for right now I am in the market for a new unit and not sure which to get, catch can or oil separator.

    Take note for bolt stud placement for both banks , the top 4 bolts are the concern, bank #2 top 4 , there is a spacer for the lower left bolt stud, ((do not loose the spacer)).

    both banks 1.jpg

    both banks 2 .jpg
    Last edited by califabricator; 04-25-2020 at 08:07 AM.

  2. #32
    Registered User
    Name: edward

    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    FLW Mo
    Liked 5 Times in 4 Posts
    Front Cover: It was fairly easy to remove. the only concerns I had here was the bolt stud placement so I loosened all the bolts for stick out and took some pics through out from different positions. I found it best to divide the work from top side work and bottom side work.

    For the front seal I opted to remove and re-install while the front cover was out and cleaned, when removed do not throw away the seal and use it to cover the mating surface for and if you decide to paint.

    I also used the old seal to find a 4WD spindle socket for when I go back to re-install the new seal and once I found a match I had grind off the tabs, ensure it works for around the seal and small enough for inside the mating surface on the front cover, (( don't forget to file off the burs from grinding off the tabs )).

    4wd spindle socket .jpg

    The bolt stud placement will effect the mounting hardware for all the accessories and also a wire clip that helps the lower coolant hoses from hitting any pulleys down below, there's also a metal clip for transmission lines as well. Remove the power steering pump out of the way..

    Note: All the sensors on both sides, the wire clip on the left and the transmission lines where the clip would go, crank and timing sensors can be cleaned and re-used, you will notice a difference between clean ones and how much crud is on the tip of the sensor where all the magic happens. Remove the 4 oil pan bolts.
    once all the hardware is loose the front cover should be easy to remove, you shouldn't need to pry with any tools, the possibility of cracking the front cover is much higher when using pry tools.

    from under .jpg

    from under2 .jpg

    from under3 .jpg

  3. #33
    Registered User
    Name: edward

    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    FLW Mo
    Liked 5 Times in 4 Posts
    Ok back at it again, here is the update on this thread. Understand this job was completed weeks ago and it happened to align with a question a new member had asked about repairing the rattle on start up, thread was started by Priobe, since then I'm sure he is tracking what this job entails.
    To re-cap, this job is not hard and can be completed by anyone with tools. the hardest part I encountered was addressing each bolt or nut for torque sequence, waiting for parts and situating the vacuum and emission lines. Lets get into it.

    I did manage to remove the front cover by hand and was easily removed, no pry tools was needed. once removed I immediately found the problem.
    Broken guide b1.jpg

    A broken guide, the driver side was broken as well but not to the point it failed, I'll call it a chip at the mounting flange. I did think about dropping the pan to chase the chip but thought its not going to get sucked up in the pick up tube and probably come out the drain hole eventually, if it hasn't already by trying to diagnose the issue buy changing the oil. I did change the oil to try and figure out the rattle on start up but eventually it got worse and guide finally broke.

    If you look very closely by the sprocket where the bolt for the guide is you will see the broken chip where it chipped off, you be the judge
    broken chip .jpg

    Here is the guide put back together in correlation to how the part would actually go..
    broken guide p1.jpg

    On to the cleaning, I thought about leaving the sensors and seal installed while cleaning, it was easy to remove both so I left the seal in and removed the sensors passenger and driver side, cleaned off the sensor tips off nicely and re-installed at the appropriate time. They were built up with oil crud. The back side of the front cover and ring was worse off, they were caked and it took some time to clean..
    front cover cleaning .jpg

    front cover cleaning 2.jpg

    Once it was clean front and back i went ahead and removed the front seal and painted the front cover used the old seal to protect the mating surface from paint, used the red sticky grease for installing the front seal making sure the spring inside the seal was still co-located.
    front seal removal .jpg

    painted front cover .jpg

    painted front cover 2 .jpg

    Attacking the crank sprocket and the upper two cam sprockets using the alignment tools I made sure the crank key-way was aligned to the 12 O-clock position utilizing the crank lock down in the starter hole of the transmission.
    Then installing the two cam lock hold down tools. It was fairly straight forward and pretty easy to do by myself. Everywhere else I have looked it explains the timing marks on the cam sprockets and where it should be lined up at but for some reason it was not exact like I thought to be.
    I used the crank alignment tool after the chains were removed, "removing the crank lock" in the transmission, I set the crank right after removing the chains and leaving the crank lock off.
    Leaving the cams locked into position where they sit. It wasn't until I installed the chains and new crank sprocket I loosened one side per chain working one side at a time.
    The colored links did the rest. I recommend using a colored paint marker to see them clearly at install. It was difficult for me to see at 51 years old.
    Note: how the timing marks align up in correlation to each other, cams and crankshaft key-way.

    timing chain align 3.jpg

    timing chain align .jpg

    timing chain align 2.jpg

    One thing to note is the front and back of the crankshaft sprocket and how it comes off for when you install the new one.
    One thing I would like to call out is the discoloration in the parts where the oil changes the color on the parts and leaves caked on oil after miles of use, this is where I started thinking of how I was going to do the oil separation, recycle the oil or the catch can so I decided to cut the old L&S unit to further investigate my concern.

    timing chain align 5.jpg

    For the oil pump I went with the Melling 176HV using the spring that came installed, the unit comes with a stock spring enclosed should you decide on stock version. For priming the unit I just opened the back cover and dripped some new oil on the pump gears.
    Note: you have to use an impact gun of sorts to remove the screws, you will strip them out trying to use anything else.
    For installation of the new unit I recommend a flex head wrench and a small pry tool, lots of patience.
    For checking your work once everything is installed, the paint marking will come in handy for the inner chain once installed to be able to inspect its placement, you wont be able to see it.
    Align chain per marking on the sprocket using the colored chain links per side, one side at a time ensuring crank is aligned to the pin on the block using the tool and you'll be Gucci with out fail..

    oil pump 1.jpg

    oil pump 2.jpg

    Chain align check.jpg
    Last edited by califabricator; 05-10-2020 at 12:37 PM.

  4. #34
    Registered User
    Name: edward

    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    FLW Mo
    Liked 5 Times in 4 Posts
    For the lower "crank sprocket" called out the crankshaft key-way alignment in correlation to the alignment dowel pin on the block, I used the alignment tool to be exact and turned out a coincidence it happened to point to the dowel pin, use the alignment tool, it comes out perfect.

    Inkedtiming chain align lower _LI.jpg

    For the cam sprockets, it was straight forward and the colored links just need to line up straddling the alignment mark on the sprocket for both sides.

    Inkedchain alignment pass side _LI.jpg

    Inkedchain alignment driver side _LI.jpg

    here it is complete, nice and clean, parts and all.
    once the chains are installed, the cam locks can be removed..

    chain alignment complete .jpg

    Good morning everyone, hope all is well, getting back after it first let me say this job was an eye opener, it took a lot of time due to parts, time available and not to mention weather. For all you guys that work outside, I would suggest a cool-A-roo. Setting up one of these is perfect, better than a blue tarp. Looks like the set up I had going but not as nice, I didn't have it set up at the time so it wasn't put to use, it wasn't as bad at the time of front cover install but its definitely bad outside now.

    cool a roo.jpg

    Here is the front cover installed, the call out was for @Priobe explaining how the solenoid area had to be disassembled to disconnect the connectors behind the bracket to remove the valve cover for that side.
    I've seen the battery relocation to the bed modification and looking towards doing it myself but not till later. If anyone has thought of moving this somewhere else for both battery and solenoid for a HD it might not be a bad idea, just a thought, it would definitely allow for easy access of components in the engine bay and not to mention clean it up a bit. I might consider it when I do my windshield washer reservoir mod.

    front install.jpg

    Ok, here is the install for the Gates green stripe serpentine belts for both accessory and upper blower. The Green stripes, I think are they best thing for this, some call out the Gators backs and many others but I have not had any slip as of yet since the repair and this is my first time changing the accessory serpentine since having the truck since 2012 but that might change as belts wear in. Recommend taking your old ones and matching it up at time of order and then again when you pick them up.
    Looking at this picture I do need a throttle cable replacement and I replaced the thermostat with a 170deg..

    front install 2 .jpg

    Ok, moving right along with installing everything back the way it was I did mention I was going to remove the insulation that was torn making the engine bay look JANKY.
    Although some might disagree to replace it so the firewall is protected but I think it will be fine unless a problem starts up. It did however help with identifying some of the vacuum short comings that run behind the elbow in between the firewall. It was just too chewed up to leave in place.

    front install 3.jpg

    I did however mocked up the elbow to sit on top while I connect everything else, had to keep working while the gasket took its time arriving. Note the PCV tubing that would normally have a foam liner around it, runs into the bottom of the intake tube. The foam tube liner was just FUBAR so I just removed it. it might effect temps but not sure as of yet. The vacuum lines and PCV hoses and tubes was just a nightmare. Mixing and matching rubber elbows getting them to fit correctly. I just needed it to work while I trouble shoot the rest of the engine at start up.

    front install 4.jpg

    I went ahead and got the MAHLE gasket from ORiley's, one thing in particular about this gasket was its metal that is incased with gasket material. The one Stieg's had gave me when it was modded was just a plain normal gasket that was port matched. This one was a small task to port match due to the metal insert but my Dremel did a good job with right attachment.

    elbow gasket.jpg
    Last edited by califabricator; 05-10-2020 at 01:35 PM.

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