Condensation its normal. you must drive short distances
Condensation its normal. you must drive short distances
O ok yea my buddy told me the same thing, when I first saw it I about had a heart attack. I do indeed maybe like 7 min drive to work vice from driving an hour one way.
Should I do anything extra next oil change or anything? or just let it be?
No you just need to drive it more. It needs time for the oil to warm up, then have enough time to burn off any water in the oil.
BRIANV (12-13-2016)
gotcha, Thank you gents!
just pick up a set of tr6 plugs. just had a quick question is the gap smaller then then the factory plugs due to the temp range?
A tighter gap prevents spark blow out with increased boost. Ideally you want the wisest gap possible for a complete burn during the combustion process, but tight gap enough to ensure no spark blow out.
Have you swapped pulleys on your truck? If not, you have no need for TR-6 or a tighter gap.
BRIANV (12-15-2016)
is TR-6 good or is the iridium TR-6IX better? 6# Lower pulley just installed with the new headers
TR-6. Some tuners don't recommend iridium plugs. I've also heard the logic that in the event you burn a plug the softer copper electrode of conventional plugs might prevent internal engine damage whereas the hard iridium will not be so forgiving.
I've been running TR-6 for over a decade on my Lightning and four years in my HD. I have zero complaints. Some guys say the gap opens up over time but I've never ran into that. I replace the plugs every 8,000-10,000 miles though.
5.4 F150 (12-17-2016), andy2003HD (12-19-2016), B.O.B. (12-21-2016), BENNY832 (12-18-2016), BRIANV (12-19-2016), GRANTBP (12-23-2016), SLOWBRA (12-17-2016), SoCal Waite (01-03-2017), SonicHD (12-17-2016), Sport90 (12-27-2016)
Can anyone point me in the direction or tell me how to clean the MAF? I have an idea but I want to make sure I don't get in there and mess something up. Thanks!
SoCal Waite, Philthy Phil, and I removed the stock coils and Belltech drop spindles and installed Hotchkis springs, new ball joints, and clunk washers on Saturday. I'm very pleased with the results. My 22's are back on and the rubbing issues seem to finally be resolved. Still have to get an alignment and try it on one certain patch of the highway I typically take to work as the true test but so far so good. Anxious to get the rear end done now to see how the truck rides as a whole.
Update: Got her aligned today while at work, took her on the nasty highway dips and she passed with flying colors. No more rubbing issues! These new coils are firm but not stiff. I love the way they feel. Thanks for helping me out guys (including throttle jockey remotely;)
Last edited by 5.4 F150; 12-19-2016 at 09:37 PM. Reason: Update to original post
JBA Coffee & Cars 06/12/2016
SLOWBRA (12-19-2016), SoCal Waite (01-03-2017)
1) Use MAF Cleaner or Electric Parts Cleaner (basically the exact same product), its available at your local auto parts store.
2) Remove the air filter to expose the MAF's electric element.
3) Spritz the MAF element with a few short burst of the MAF cleaner.
4) Let it dry.
5) Replace the air filter.
Just don't damage the MAF's electric filiment.
TJ, thank you sir! this is my second step in trying to find why I am pulling a P0171 code.